Types of leather and quality:
Full Grain – the most expensive and highest grade of
leather where the hides are used with the skin surface as is, showing the grain
and marks accumulated by the animal. Only the cleanest and nicest hides are
used full grain and result in the most natural looking leathers. Also, because
the skin of the animal is where tensile strength is strongest, the unaltered
full grain hides tend to be the most durable and long lasting leathers.
Top Grain – the next best grade of leather after full
grain, these are hides that have their skin surface sanded or buffed to
eliminate marks and imperfections. They are then stained, dyed or pigmented and
sometimes textured (corrected grain) to give the leather more character. The
tensile strength of these leathers is very good but not quite at the level of
the unaltered skin of a full grain leather.
Splits – a lower grade and less expensive leather where
hides are split into two or more thicknesses and the flesh (suede) side, rather
than the skin portion, is buffed and made into a new piece of finished leather
with the techniques mentioned above. These hides have the lowest tensile
strength and long term durability because they do not contain the actual skin
surface of the animal.
Coloring of leather:
Aniline Dyed – The most natural method of adding color to
leather where a transparent soluble dye allows one to see the grain and
character of the skin through the color and finish.
Semi-aniline – Very similar to above but with an
additional coating that may contain some pigments to provide more protection and
make the color more uniform.
Pigmented – non soluble and non transparent pigments (more
like paint) are used which result in a more synthetic overall appearance than
either of the above. Pigmented leather has the further disadvantage of looking
like peeled paint as it wears rather than aging gracefully like the aniline
Pull up leather:
A quality of certain aniline leathers which are deeply impregnated with oils and waxes. When the leather is bent or pulled, the oils move around within the skin causing lighter tones and interesting colors to become visible. Most people find this effect quite pleasing as it gives the leather more interesting character that changes with use. Pull up leathers are also a sign of good durable tannage and finishing where the leather is well moisturized and protected by all of the oils impregnated into the hide. Pull up leathers have the advantage of aging well and looking more interesting as they distress. At Mitchell we love pull up leathers. Horween's Chromexel is perhaps the ultimate example.